Zanzibar--Two Thumbs Down

Looks beautiful from up here!  White powdery sand, aqua beaches...

Even the hotel is lovely.  Though why you would want an indoor pool at the beach escapes me?

So what's the story.  Well, I'm sure it is distinctly clouded by our experience at the hotel.  Yes, it was nice enough, people were friendly, but the food SUCKED!  I mean we're at the ocean for christsakes--where's the seafood?????  The menu was short but sweet.  But everything we asked for was unavailable.  They couldn't even do breakfast decently.  The place was nearly vacant--only 4 other people there.  Thank God we made friends with Francine from NYC so we could whine together.  During our five days there we only had one good meal and that was seafood on seafood night.  The rest of the food was a real mystery.

At least the cocktails were good and free and we made the most of the liquid diet.

The beach was deserted and during low tide you could walk almost a mile out into the ocean to a reef.  We attempted it one morning and were given rubber shoes to wear.  Now I know why.  It was impossible without them as there were hidden coral colonies at high tide that now made the trek very treacherous.  Not to mention the anemones in droves just waiting for a misstep to render a blow.  Shockingly we encountered local women with hand made spears walking barefoot spearing fish and shrimp along the route which they deposited into burlap bags.  They were singing and laughing and we had a nice chat with them.  It was so difficult to maneuver the coral that we never made it to the reef before the tide started coming back.  Forget this!

After a couple of days of lazy sun, Steph got overdone so the next morning with Francine in tow, we headed for a Spice Farm Tour and to visit the ancient Stone Town.

There a lots of spice tours available and when you drive back into the forest you would be clueless of what awaits.  Under the canopy of trees it is cool, buggy and very aromatic.  Our guide proceeded to show us the wonders.

Can you guess?  This is cinnamon.  Never had any idea it was a tree.  They slice the bark and then let it dry.  It curls on its own as the moisture evaporates.

Yep.  A freshly picked cluster of lichee nuts.  And he was right.  They are the sweetest I have ever tasted.

And madame Steph is sporting a freshly sliced star fruit.  Very sappy and sweet--both of them!

And here we have cloves.  Would have walked right by and missed them.  Our guide walked around for a bit with one stuffed in his nose since he said he had a cold.  Looked like a green bugger--gross.

And these are nutmeg pods.  The nutmeg falls to the ground when it is ripe.

Beats me what this is, especially since you have to pry open the husk like a clam.

And then it is revealed--the lipstick plant as he demonstrates.  Very creamy kernels with a nice, gentle aroma.  It is actually used for lipstick and the locals use it au naturale.

And this monster they call a cotton tree.  It actually grows these huge whisps that then fall to the ground.  Thought I might try a few hair extensions.

At the end of the tour we were all crowned queens--for a price of course.  They wanted to seriously overcharge us for these freshly woven palm frond hats and specs.  No thanks.  We did do some hard bargaining for some spices before we left to visit Stone Town.

Probably another reason Zanzibar was not a fave was our location way up on the north coast.  It was 45 minutes into town!  Then in town it stunk horrifically!!!  I know, lots of places stink but this really was the worst.

Probably had something to do with the seafood market.  Finally found seafood!

Fresh octopus anyone?  Steph and Francine were gagging by now so we exited back to the street before they started to hurl.

As it was midday, most people were out of the sun having lunch somewhere.  Looks, feels and smells like any other coastal town.  But I would take Lamu any day over this.  Just didn't like the vibe here.  It wasn't welcoming.

I had read that this was a great foodie place with awesome coffee.

Once you cross the lush courtyard, you enter the hotel area.  Then you walk up seven flights of stairs to the rooftop restaurant. Going back down was much less effort.

The view across the roofs to the ocean was spectacular!

And the menu was quite interesting.  Of course we have to try the coffee and it did not disappoint.  Lunch?  That was a different thing altogether.  Steph and I ordered the fish of the day and Francine craved a steak.  After 30 minutes Steph got raw fish but mine was ok.  She sent hers back. I ate mine.  Francine waited.  After another 30 minutes, Steph got her fish and Francine got her steak.  Fish works but the steak is shoe leather.  Back it goes and we wait.  After another 30 minutes there is quite a commotion in the kitchen behind us, the chef runs out, the manager is yelling at him and the waiters scatter.  Francine gives up.  Francine wanted to treat us but when she went to use her credit card there was no power.  So we all scrounged up enough cash to pay the tab and left.

We walked along the docks, by the olde cannons that formerly protected this colony.  In this ocean square they have seafood festivals at night but we didn't want to make another expensive 45minute ride into town that night.  Instead we sat enjoying the sun and breeze.  At least for a bit.  We were accosted by a very drunk local trying to sell us trinkets.  When we tried to shoo him away, he started screaming 'fuck you' over and over.  Our guide finally ran him off, thankfully, and we headed back to the crappy food hotel.

Dear Francine left us in the morning and we left our temporary imprint on the powdery sand on our last day.  In the morning it is back to Nairobi and Steph's last day here.
Where did the three weeks go???

 I decided to give Steph a work out so she would sleep well on her flight home.  So we headed to Hell's Gate National Park to spend the day.  It takes about 2 hours to get there.  I had intended for us to ride bikes thru the park but I soon realized it would be a bit taxing in the heat and they had no maps and we had not packed a lunch.  So Caesar drove us along the dirt roads where we saw many groups that had camped overnight and were proceeding to rappel the cliffs and rocks.  We decided to hire a guide (required) and tour the gorge.  We opted for the two hour hike.

Well.  It was more than a hike.  It was a workout!  And yes, you did need to hold on when climbing up and down the sheer rocky faces.

Yes, we did climb down this to walk along the dry riverbed.  Scary.  Steph had to be coaxed and our skinny Masaai guide showed her he really was a strong dude.

Some areas are not so dry as they are fed by underground springs, both hot and cold.  Last year in this spot a sudden rain storm created a flash flood that washed 30 school children down stream killing 7.  It is closed off now until they replace the surrounding walkways.

And then the day was done.  Back to the skeeter motel to grab our bags after a bite to eat and somehow it was almost 10pm liftoff time.  We dashed to the airport to find Steph's flight boarding so we didn't have time for our usual slobbery, crying, snotty nose farewells.  We actually missed that, we both agreed.

So she was gone.  February flew by somehow but not without reminders of Zanzibar.  I contracted malaria and spent most of February in bed.  Feels like the worst flu you ever had.  Another reason not to like Zanzibar. And then in March we were consolidated for the Kenyan elections for 10 days.  It was fun to spend time with the other 115 volunteers but after about 7 days we all found we missed the quiet of our own villages and routines.  And then we endured the wait for the official declaration.  It was like the hanging chad, Blagoyovich and Supreme Court all rolled into one!!  What a stressful time not knowing if and when there would be violence.  But it's done now and the countdown is here for all of us to return to the good ole U. S. of A.  Only a few more months now and I am soooooooooo ready!  We start doing our paperwork and have our final medical exams next month in preparation.

I'll close this tome by thanking Steph again for being such a love to my boy Cognac.  I appreciate everyone's prayers but his brain tumor was not going to allow him to have a happy ending.  It was his time.  So Steph kindly put him to sleep for me before she visited and we both cried over him when she arrived.  Happy trails sweet boy.

Steph Lives My Life

Caesar drove us to my town, Kabarnet, and now Steph gets to rough it with me for four days.

The view across the mountains is amazing!

And then we walk into my 'compound' down the rocky area, dodging cow pies and chickens.

And arrive at my front door. I'm pleased to see Eric has kept my lettuce and parsley alive.  We drop our bags and Steph needs a bathroom break.

Twas a really rough initiation!  Steph actually stepped out and dry heaved for about five minutes.  She finally made it with a bandanna tied around her nose and mouth. After a couple of days she had mastered holding her breath and didn't even pee on her shoes!  Good job girlie girl!

Being away for a couple of weeks, we needed to head out for food and of course everyone wanted to meet her.

We headed to the market for fresh fruit and veggies and to meet my market 'Mama's.'

Mama Essie has fresh kale and began chopping it for us while we chatted. She has since rented her space to someone else because she got an office job she has been waiting for three years to land.

Mama Kelvin (you are addressed by the name of your first born child) sells dried beans.  Sometimes I buy them from her and then give them away.  My tummy can't take beans any more.  Mama Kelvin calls me 'Mama Sukari' because she can never remember Stephanie.  Quite a few Mamas do this.  Works for me just fine.

Mama Mary didn't want to be in the picture but I buy most of my needs from her.  She always throws extra into each bag.

After we lug our purchases home, we head to Pastor's house to collect Sukari.His family is very excited to meet Steph and invites us for Sunday supper after attending his church service, of course.  Steph is winded from hiking up the rocky terrain to their house and of course being called muzungu by about 50 kids running from all directions.

We taxi back to my place, unpack a bit and I whip up some dinner before it gets too dark and the power goes out.

Sukari takes up her position in the 'queen's' chair to  check out this new person that has invaded her space.  She and Steph are soon fast friends and she love, love, loves all the belly rubs and head scratches.  She even starts talking to Steph in her doggie lingo.

Saturday we are up early meet our taxi driver and head to Eldoret for some supermarket shopping.  I didn't want to subject Steph to local market meat because I didn't want to hear her gag at every meal.  We stopped and viewed the Keriyo Gorge along the way, even saw hang gliders from Iten floating among the mountain tops and returned before dark.

Sunday was to be a big day as we were going to Pastor's church for service.  I had never gone before and he was all excited to have us visit.  Services usually begin at 10am and go until 2pm.  I knew we would never last that long so we hiked over to arrive around noon.

Pastor has the largest church and congregation in town and he is the only full time pastor, meaning he has no other job outside his church.  It is an AIC church (African Inland Church) which isn't the bible thumping, rocking and screaming type--hallelujah!  And it was packed!!!!  There were easily 1000 people there with kids running around on the lawn out front.  Of course we were escorted right up to the front pew to sit with Pastor and his family.  It was a lovely, entertaining service which he conducted both in English and Kiswahili for our benefit.  Lots of youth groups took to the altar to sing their ensembles and one young lad of about 10 really rocked it!  All newcomers have to stand in front, introduce themselves and say a few words.  I forgot to tell Steph about this part but she did just fine.

The service ended around 2ish and after a 30 minute break, it was back inside for me to lead a meeting about a local program I am starting here and to introduce another local organization that educates about HIV/AIDS.  Jeepers!  It took forever.  I don't know why I thought it would be any different that any other meeting.  We had about 300 people that stayed to hear our program and once again Steph and I were asked to speak, this time in more depth.  It was very touching when Steph was asked to talk about what it meant for her to visit her Mom in Kenya.

We finally finished up around 4:30 and Pastor said to come to his house around 6 for supper with the family.

Pastor has four children of his own and has taken in two more that are relatives.

This is baby Joy.  She was born Christmas Day and is doted on by everyone.

They had prepared a quite tasty chicken dish with vegetables and we talked and laughed until around 10pm.  They really thought we would stay the night!!  It took quite some doing to get a taxi to come for us as most don't work on Sunday and when we returned home we were wiped out.

The next day I took Steph to see the demonstration garden that is one of my projects.  I had not seen it since it was planted just before Christmas.

Wow!! We were impressed.  It was now abloom and ready for harvesting.  This is the spinach, kale and spring onions.  It has since become quite a controversy.  The so called 'volunteers' that were tending it in exchange for free food demanded to be paid for their work too. So Madame Roseline paid them and chased them away--no free food here.  We now have to rethink how we do this project.

After lunch in town and back at my place, Steph wanted to milk one of the cows.

Eric showed her the basics and then she stepped right up.  I only knew about this later or I certainly would have snapped that shot.  She said the udders were greasy--duh.  If you had someone yanking on you several times a day, you would want a lubricant too.  Okay all you sickos--get your mind out of the gutter.

Steph had been helping me out with heating water, hauling water, cleaning house etc.  Now it was time to purify some water.

Time to roll up your sleeves and get to it.  This is the same bandana that she had previously used as a toilet face mask.

After you fill this 20 liter container, you add several packets of purifying powder, stir for five minutes, wait 20 minutes for it to settle and then strain.  And this is the gunk.  Can you imagine drinking it without this process??  It took us most of the day to do 40 liters that will last me for about 10 days.  I use the clean water for drinking and cooking but the nasty stuff to bathe and clean the floors.  Though recently I began using the clean water to wash my face since it seems to constantly look like an everything pizza.  My face that is.

When we finished all the chores, Steph remarked "Mom this is a hard life. I don't know if I could do this."

So we decided to play another game of Bananagrams.  It is the standard entertainment.

The next morning is ta-ta to Kabarnet and back to Nairobi to head to Zanzibar.

Steph wasn't as ruffled catching a matatu this time since everyone here knows me and doesn't cause such a furor.  Mama Gladys was there to sell us our tickets and see us off.

Ohhhhhhh to head to the ocean, have hot showers and good food.  Zanzibar here we come!

Hippo Point and Dodo's Tower

As I mentioned last time, this was to be the high point of Steph's trip this time. I had read about this 600 acre private game sanctuary and knew I had to check it out.  Located on an isthmus between Lake Naivasha and Lake Oloiden (one is freshwater and the other salt lake), this is stepping into the finest of colonial Africa.  Here's the back story.

In the 1940's, Hippo Point was the Kenyan home of the Earl of Mountbatten but now belongs to his nephew Michael and wife Dodo.  It is currently run by her son and his wife, Dominic and Casilda.  Got all that family tree?  Dodo is an interior designer and totally refurbished the property and built the Tower.  It is five living floors, four bedrooms, each with a unique view of the hippo busy lake and sumptuous baths.  You feel like you have stepped into a fairy tale book.

Every inch of space is meticulously laid to inspire the eye and all senses.  From the use of cedar, cypress, mahogany, ebony and black granite, the interior is museum quality but you get to splay on the sofa or sip tea on one of the five wrap around balconies from vintage china and silver services.

I just knew I had booked an overnight for us but wow was I surprised.  It was quite difficult to even find this oasis.  Our driver had to call three times to navigate us thru the three separate, armed gated surrounds before we pulled into the unmarked sanctuary.  We were greeted on the lawn by the head housekeeper, two maids (in their pristine black uniforms with white starched pinafores) and the game warden to escort us inside.

They explained they were our staff and took us inside for a tour.

This is the main living room which has a library off to the side and a porch that views the lake.

A fully stocked premium bar with fresh lemon/lime slices waiting.  They must have been cut when we cleared the last security gate.  We were partial to the decanter of brandy and managed to put a serious dent in the supply in the decanter.  Had to make the most of just one night, right!

The view of the lake, with hippos at the edge, that could be seen from every room.

We toured all the floors and rooms.  There is even a meditation room with full sized cushions and mats on the sixth level and you can climb the iron ladder on the tippy top to a small balcony for an amazing view of everything--lake, main house, giraffes, zebras and buffalo.  When we descended to the main floor, I asked which bedroom was ours (thinking we would have to share) and was told 'whichever one you like, each of you choose one."  FOR REAL??? Then I asked which baths we were to use and was told there were no other guests in the Tower and we could use any and all spaces we wanted.  I felt like a kid in the ultimate candy shop.

Steph chose this room on the third floor.

I chose the master bedroom on the fifth floor.

We were informed by our staff, after they quickly whisked our bags away to our chosen rooms for unpacking, that Dominic and Casilda were expecting us for lunch at the main house and they would walk us over.  Ooooooookay.

After splashing off the road dust in the glorious bathrooms (there were even bottles of nice perfume available) we strolled along the lake to the manor house.

We were walking among the animals!!!!! We weren't even in a jeep but just ambling along the perfectly manicured grounds to have lunch with the owner's family.   Just another ordinary day.

They had set an amazing feast of poached salmon, fresh mixed green salad, potato salad, blanched beans with almonds, berries and assorted fruits.  Most of it grown in their own organic garden which we toured later.  We had a delightful three hour lunch, polishing off a few bottles of wine and hearing stories of how the two of them met.  In Saudi Arabia where he was shooting a documentary on womens rights and she ended up being in the movie.  They were charming, interesting and interested in our story as well.

When we returned to the Tower, our staff asked what time we would like our tea.  Well.  We had quite a buzz so decided we would have a nap and tea around 5ish and headed off to our rooms.

When we resurfaced, the balcony off the living room was set for tea with still warm cookies resting on fine china and silver spoons waiting to be used for a stir.  The maid poured our tea and get this--she silently retreated a few steps away to effortlessly return to refill the cups before I could raise my arm to reach for the pot. Aaaaaaaaaaaah!  I am sure liking this!!  But it did seem a tad uncomfortable having servants waiting on you like that.  But we got over that notion quickly and just went with it.

The game warden was waiting to take us on a walk around the sanctuary and we were instructed to return by 6:30 for sundowners on the lawn with Dominic and Casilda.  Well, excuuuuuuuuuse me.  It was incredibly awesome to walk among the animals!  The warden even pointed out a section of power line waiting to be reconnected.  Seems a giraffe had been electrocuted recently while nibbling treetop greenery.  That would never have even occurred to my mind.  We even petted an adopted gazelle.

And of course, the contest for butt shots continued.

When we returned, the lawn by the lake had been transformed to an al fresco mecca.  Oriental carpets with fat, cushy pillows, trays laden with munchies and a full bar greeted us.

We continued our luncheon conversation sipping gin and tonics with our hosts while the sun faded away and the hippos began their snorting warning that they would soon invade the lawn to forage for their evening meal.

No sooner had we retreated inside than the head housekeeper surfaced to ask what time we would like dinner and if we had any preferences or allergies our chef should be aware of. OMG!!!  This really is fantasyland!  Since we were grungy and needed a break after sundowners, we opted for a bath and dinner around 9.

Steph wanted to avail herself of the master bath  adjoining my bedroom but wasn't sure of the contents of the many crystal bottles lining the bathtub.  I told her to ask the maid that was quietly standing by.  The maid promptly accompanied Steph upstairs and DREW HER BATH with just the right mix of oil, salts and aromatics. I carried her a nice tumbler of brandy and sat down to keep her company. We laughed and giggled like school girls catching up on each others news and marveling in the moment.

I preferred to luxuriate in the eucalyptus scented steam shower before my dinner and needed to get on with it.  It was almost dinner time.  By jove, when I toweled off my pickled body, it was nine pm. I think we will dine in our bath robes!  And we did.  And the servants didn't even bat a eyelash.

The perfect table for two with yet a different set of china, silver and crystal awaited.  It was a feast for the eyes that didn't compare with the feast soon to be in our tummy.  Our chef and his staff had prepared the perfectly roasted rosemary chicken, asparagus almondine, scalloped potatoes, succotash, fresh fruit and almond crusted berry tart for dessert.  I could have licked the plate!!  We also downed almost both the bottles of red and white wine.  Not wanting to kill the buzz, we passed on the freshly roasted coffee and retreated by the unlit fireside and curled up on the sofas.  What a splendid day!  The maid peeked in to say goodnight, reminded us to keep the doors and windows closed to keep out the monkeys and asked what time we would like breakfast.  My my.  Such difficult choices.  We opted on 9am since Ceasar was coming around 10, chatted for a short while and then climbed the stairs to our sumptuous beds.  With feint sounds of hippos, water lapping the lakeshore and monkeys dashing on the balcony,sleep was blissful.

In the morning, I padded into the bathroom to brush my teeth after a couple of cups of coffee on the balcony and it was once again immaculate.  No ring in Steph's tub.  When did that happen?  I never heard a sound or saw a soul.

Once again the lawn had been transformed to an almost mystical  open air veranda.

Freshly squeezed strawberry juice, home made passion fruit jam, piping scones and croissants were waiting.  And of course the chef quickly fixed our ordered eggs, bacon, sausage and even had a spinach quiche too.  I stayed glued to my comfy outdoor chair taking in all the morning sights and sounds while Steph strolled for a few last pics of
paradise lost.

And then it was time to go.

Our staff bade us farewell with instructions to meet Dominic and Casilda at the main house on the way out.  Casilda took us on a tour of this also amazing venue of seven unique bedrooms, baths, kitchens and gardens, asked us to sign the guest book (there were some reeeeeeally famous people in there!) before we waved ta-ta and headed beyond the gates of this little piece of heaven on earth.  Most definitely my favorite place of anywhere I have been--EVER!

Next up--Steph living like a Peace Corps volunteer.