Thursday, April 4, 2013

Hippo Point and Dodo's Tower

As I mentioned last time, this was to be the high point of Steph's trip this time. I had read about this 600 acre private game sanctuary and knew I had to check it out.  Located on an isthmus between Lake Naivasha and Lake Oloiden (one is freshwater and the other salt lake), this is stepping into the finest of colonial Africa.  Here's the back story.

In the 1940's, Hippo Point was the Kenyan home of the Earl of Mountbatten but now belongs to his nephew Michael and wife Dodo.  It is currently run by her son and his wife, Dominic and Casilda.  Got all that family tree?  Dodo is an interior designer and totally refurbished the property and built the Tower.  It is five living floors, four bedrooms, each with a unique view of the hippo busy lake and sumptuous baths.  You feel like you have stepped into a fairy tale book.

Every inch of space is meticulously laid to inspire the eye and all senses.  From the use of cedar, cypress, mahogany, ebony and black granite, the interior is museum quality but you get to splay on the sofa or sip tea on one of the five wrap around balconies from vintage china and silver services.

I just knew I had booked an overnight for us but wow was I surprised.  It was quite difficult to even find this oasis.  Our driver had to call three times to navigate us thru the three separate, armed gated surrounds before we pulled into the unmarked sanctuary.  We were greeted on the lawn by the head housekeeper, two maids (in their pristine black uniforms with white starched pinafores) and the game warden to escort us inside.
They explained they were our staff and took us inside for a tour.
This is the main living room which has a library off to the side and a porch that views the lake.
A fully stocked premium bar with fresh lemon/lime slices waiting.  They must have been cut when we cleared the last security gate.  We were partial to the decanter of brandy and managed to put a serious dent in the supply in the decanter.  Had to make the most of just one night, right!
The view of the lake, with hippos at the edge, that could be seen from every room.

We toured all the floors and rooms.  There is even a meditation room with full sized cushions and mats on the sixth level and you can climb the iron ladder on the tippy top to a small balcony for an amazing view of everything--lake, main house, giraffes, zebras and buffalo.  When we descended to the main floor, I asked which bedroom was ours (thinking we would have to share) and was told 'whichever one you like, each of you choose one."  FOR REAL??? Then I asked which baths we were to use and was told there were no other guests in the Tower and we could use any and all spaces we wanted.  I felt like a kid in the ultimate candy shop.
Steph chose this room on the third floor.
I chose the master bedroom on the fifth floor.

We were informed by our staff, after they quickly whisked our bags away to our chosen rooms for unpacking, that Dominic and Casilda were expecting us for lunch at the main house and they would walk us over.  Ooooooookay.

After splashing off the road dust in the glorious bathrooms (there were even bottles of nice perfume available) we strolled along the lake to the manor house.
We were walking among the animals!!!!! We weren't even in a jeep but just ambling along the perfectly manicured grounds to have lunch with the owner's family.   Just another ordinary day.
They had set an amazing feast of poached salmon, fresh mixed green salad, potato salad, blanched beans with almonds, berries and assorted fruits.  Most of it grown in their own organic garden which we toured later.  We had a delightful three hour lunch, polishing off a few bottles of wine and hearing stories of how the two of them met.  In Saudi Arabia where he was shooting a documentary on womens rights and she ended up being in the movie.  They were charming, interesting and interested in our story as well.

When we returned to the Tower, our staff asked what time we would like our tea.  Well.  We had quite a buzz so decided we would have a nap and tea around 5ish and headed off to our rooms.


When we resurfaced, the balcony off the living room was set for tea with still warm cookies resting on fine china and silver spoons waiting to be used for a stir.  The maid poured our tea and get this--she silently retreated a few steps away to effortlessly return to refill the cups before I could raise my arm to reach for the pot. Aaaaaaaaaaaah!  I am sure liking this!!  But it did seem a tad uncomfortable having servants waiting on you like that.  But we got over that notion quickly and just went with it.

The game warden was waiting to take us on a walk around the sanctuary and we were instructed to return by 6:30 for sundowners on the lawn with Dominic and Casilda.  Well, excuuuuuuuuuse me.  It was incredibly awesome to walk among the animals!  The warden even pointed out a section of power line waiting to be reconnected.  Seems a giraffe had been electrocuted recently while nibbling treetop greenery.  That would never have even occurred to my mind.  We even petted an adopted gazelle.
And of course, the contest for butt shots continued.

When we returned, the lawn by the lake had been transformed to an al fresco mecca.  Oriental carpets with fat, cushy pillows, trays laden with munchies and a full bar greeted us.
We continued our luncheon conversation sipping gin and tonics with our hosts while the sun faded away and the hippos began their snorting warning that they would soon invade the lawn to forage for their evening meal.

No sooner had we retreated inside than the head housekeeper surfaced to ask what time we would like dinner and if we had any preferences or allergies our chef should be aware of. OMG!!!  This really is fantasyland!  Since we were grungy and needed a break after sundowners, we opted for a bath and dinner around 9.

Steph wanted to avail herself of the master bath  adjoining my bedroom but wasn't sure of the contents of the many crystal bottles lining the bathtub.  I told her to ask the maid that was quietly standing by.  The maid promptly accompanied Steph upstairs and DREW HER BATH with just the right mix of oil, salts and aromatics. I carried her a nice tumbler of brandy and sat down to keep her company. We laughed and giggled like school girls catching up on each others news and marveling in the moment.

I preferred to luxuriate in the eucalyptus scented steam shower before my dinner and needed to get on with it.  It was almost dinner time.  By jove, when I toweled off my pickled body, it was nine pm. I think we will dine in our bath robes!  And we did.  And the servants didn't even bat a eyelash.

The perfect table for two with yet a different set of china, silver and crystal awaited.  It was a feast for the eyes that didn't compare with the feast soon to be in our tummy.  Our chef and his staff had prepared the perfectly roasted rosemary chicken, asparagus almondine, scalloped potatoes, succotash, fresh fruit and almond crusted berry tart for dessert.  I could have licked the plate!!  We also downed almost both the bottles of red and white wine.  Not wanting to kill the buzz, we passed on the freshly roasted coffee and retreated by the unlit fireside and curled up on the sofas.  What a splendid day!  The maid peeked in to say goodnight, reminded us to keep the doors and windows closed to keep out the monkeys and asked what time we would like breakfast.  My my.  Such difficult choices.  We opted on 9am since Ceasar was coming around 10, chatted for a short while and then climbed the stairs to our sumptuous beds.  With feint sounds of hippos, water lapping the lakeshore and monkeys dashing on the balcony,sleep was blissful.

In the morning, I padded into the bathroom to brush my teeth after a couple of cups of coffee on the balcony and it was once again immaculate.  No ring in Steph's tub.  When did that happen?  I never heard a sound or saw a soul.

Once again the lawn had been transformed to an almost mystical  open air veranda.

Freshly squeezed strawberry juice, home made passion fruit jam, piping scones and croissants were waiting.  And of course the chef quickly fixed our ordered eggs, bacon, sausage and even had a spinach quiche too.  I stayed glued to my comfy outdoor chair taking in all the morning sights and sounds while Steph strolled for a few last pics of
paradise lost.

And then it was time to go.
Our staff bade us farewell with instructions to meet Dominic and Casilda at the main house on the way out.  Casilda took us on a tour of this also amazing venue of seven unique bedrooms, baths, kitchens and gardens, asked us to sign the guest book (there were some reeeeeeally famous people in there!) before we waved ta-ta and headed beyond the gates of this little piece of heaven on earth.  Most definitely my favorite place of anywhere I have been--EVER!

Next up--Steph living like a Peace Corps volunteer.

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